64 JULY AUGUST 2024 | THE FOREIGN SERVICE JOURNAL OFF ROAD WITH THE FOREIGN SERVICE Swimming with Whales in Tonga BY TOM ARMBRUSTER Tom Armbruster served as a retired annuitant (REA) senior adviser during the establishment of U.S. Embassy Nuku`alofa, Tonga, and is now an area adviser at the United Nations. He retired from the Foreign Service as ambassador to the Marshall Islands (2012-2016), having served in Finland, Cuba, the Bureau of Oceans and International Environmental and Scientific Affairs, Russia (twice), Mexico, and Tajikistan. After retiring, he led Office of Inspector General inspections to Denmark, Colombia, Chad, Mauritania, Nepal, and Bangladesh, and worked as a foreign policy contractor at Fort Meade, Maryland. He serves on the Board of Global Policy Insights. Knowing the strict rules in place for whale watching in Hawaii, and the distance boats must maintain from the whales, I was a little unsure about swimming with them in Tonga. My plan was to see how respectful the crews were toward the whales and make a game-time decision. I did not want to disturb whales wintering in Tonga (to give birth and rest) after spending their austral summer in Antarctica. One of six South Pacific humpback populations, the “Tongan Tribe” doesn’t mix with the humpbacks in Hawaii and are among the last whales to be hunted (although they were among the most affected by commercial whaling after World War II). They can grow to 60 feet long and weigh 35-50 tons. According to the Marine Mammal Center, less than 10 percent of the original humpback population remains worldwide. At the time, my day job involved assisting on the opening of the U.S. embassy in Nuku`alofa. A Saturday on the water sounded like a good escape from looking for official residences, fielding consular questions, and advising Washington on plans for the Secretary of State Grand Opening of this new embassy. There were eight of us that day, many from the British High Commission, a few Kiwi tourists, and me. I had already seen turtles, rays, sea snakes, and sharks in the Tongan waters while snorkeling or on boats, but the prospect of seeing whales in their environment was thrilling. Tonga is one of the few countries where along with watching whales, you can jump into the water with them accompanied by a qualified Tongan guide. Whales 9 o’clock! “Group 1, gear up!” Snorkels were donned, flippers strapped on, and shorty wetsuits zipped. “Well,” I thought, “Group 1 will get a good look.” They were dropped off a short swim from the whales, jumping off the stern and making their way, with their guide, Tomasi, in the lead. They came back laughing and chattering and checking their waterproof cameras. BIBI VOYLES Whale lookout, off the northern coast of Tonga.
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