THE FOREIGN SERVICE JOURNAL | JULY AUGUST 2024 65 “Group 2, get ready!” We had repositioned the boat and were close. Tomasi had given us a good briefing. Whale swimming is done on the whales’ terms. If they want to engage, they will. If they don’t, one powerful downstroke of their tail and they’re gone. Tomasi knew the whales after years of studying their behavior on the surface and beneath it. He said the whales recognized boats by the engine noise and showed favorites. “Group 2! Now! Go!” We were off! The whale closest to me was horizontal in the water. He rolled 45 degrees, slowly, to look me over. Not just from my fins to my snorkel—but through the mask. The whale made eye contact. I can only imagine my eyes were the size of saucers. Innocence, peace, and a benign presence was what the whale communicated. I hope I communicated awe and gratitude. Then, the whale got playful. Just like a dog gets the “zoomies,” the whale took off, circled around, and made several more passes at us. I retreated toward the First encounter. BRYAN ARMBRUSTER Author (at left) and Tongan guide Uili Lousi on deck. BIBI VOYLES boat ladder to make sure I was out of the way and watched the show. Then, the whale ventured back out. That’s when it breached. In that encounter, I succumbed to the magic of the whales.
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