The Foreign Service Journal, November 2005

to load the cars. Letters from the missionaries, now in the archives of the Presbyterian Historical Society in Philadelphia, describe what fol- lowed. Days 1-2: Because the track was in need of repair, and “wobbly,” the train stopped at dark. Starting again at 5:30 the next morning, the train reached its destination, Sheriff Khana, by mid-morning. Although the autos were successfully off- loaded and the party ready to go, it took Paddock five hours to notify the governor-general in Tabriz and receive a reply. While waiting they “begged” a good meal from a Russian woman and searched in nearby debris “left by the Bolsheviks” for a staff from which to fly an American flag. At 4 p.m., they finally began the drive, entering what one participant described as “no man’s land.” The lead car, driven by Ferguson, flew the American flag and carried Paddock, Sardar-i-Fateh and a ser- vant for each. Dodd and Muller, in the other car, carried the gasoline, food and personal kits. They pro- ceeded without difficulty until about 8 o’clock that evening, when they realized they had lost their way and had to retrace their steps. Because a battle had taken place between Kurds and Persians a few days before, neither people nor animals could be seen, but they eventually found a village to spend the night. By the time they laid out their blan- kets and turned in, it was nearly mid- night. Day 3: The group started out along the lakeshore anticipating meeting up with Kurds, as Sardar-i- Fateh had sent a letter to Ismail Agha requesting a meeting. Not long afterward, five Kurdish horse- men appeared, having intercepted the messenger. One of the five dashed off to a nearby village and shortly returned with a minor chief and 30 horsemen. Four of the horsemen were designated as escorts, two in front and two behind. The trip was delayed while one car was freed from sand. Then sud- denly the lead car, Paddock’s, speed- ed up and three of the Kurds left the group and galloped toward the mountains, the fourth remaining beside the lead car. The sardar sud- denly waved a white handkerchief out the car window, for Kurds from a nearby village were firing at the cars. One bullet struck in front of Paddock’s car, another behind. The party sped ahead, away from one vil- lage, only to find that they were being fired on from the next village as well. The Kurdish escort returned, indicating it was safe to proceed. The next immediate obstacle was a large ditch, which the Kurds filled in to permit the cars to pass. At 1 in the afternoon, Paddock and compa- ny arrived in Dilman (also known as Salmas and Shahpur), the site of a governorate and four miles from the home of Ismail Agha. Anticipating that at least one night would be spent with the governor, the party unloaded the cars and parked in a nearby inn (caravanserai). Paddock sent a letter to Agha seeking advice on whether he should call on him or whether the chief would call on the delegation. His reply came quickly, saying he was indisposed and could not come, but would be glad to re- ceive “His Excellency, the American consul.” Another letter arrived at the gov- ernor’s house explaining that Persian horsemen, not Kurds, had fired on the American party, thinking they were involved in a Kurdish attack. The Persians, to make amends, offered to escort the group to Urmia. Muller commented in a subsequent letter, “What strange logic — first, to mistake two automobiles flying the American flag, and fleeing like the very mischief, for a Kurdish attack; and second, to suggest the possibili- ty of escorting us through a Kurd- infested country.” Days 4-8: Patience is a virtue, particularly in the Middle East, and Gordon Paddock amply demonstrat- ed that quality in Dilman. For five days the party remained, calling on Ismail Agha and receiving his visits. Such calls involved a great deal of sitting and drinking cups of coffee, but little talking. Twice during the time, Agha made all-day calls, com- ing at 10 a.m. and staying until 5:30 p.m. During one of those occasions, he excused himself, but Paddock remained seated, waiting for his guest’s return. The missionaries informed him at dinner that evening that while he had been patiently waiting, Agha had gone into an adjoining room and “had a nice nap.” During this period, the delegation was effectively trapped by the securi- ty situation. As Muller described the scene, “Kurds go through the streets in twos and threes with lowered rifles; shops are closed and locked; most people keep off the streets; for- eigners and officials move about with a guard; men constantly waiting on the governor with complaints of what the Kurds are doing ask for redress and the governor puts them off with a N O V E M B E R 2 0 0 5 / F O R E I G N S E R V I C E J O U R N A L 59 Persian mobs, joined in some cases by soldiers, looted the Presbyterian mission compound in Urmia and attacked Christians.